Farmers markets in Southern California promise beauty — heirloom tomatoes stacked like jewels, chalkboard signs, live music. But behind the aesthetic lies a truth: food that feels exclusive, not communal. In Tijuana, Mercado Hidalgo is compact, dense, and overflowing — a place where necessity and community intertwine. In contrast, LA and San Diego’s markets often operate as curated stages for lifestyle and taste. I trace how food markets reveal what — and who — we value.

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